by Andrew Koslosky KGCHS, Contributing Writer
A pilgrimage to the Holy Land is more than a journey; it is a transformative encounter with faith, history, and the divine. For centuries, Christians, Jews, and Muslims have traveled to this most sacred of regions for all three, which encompasses modern-day Israel, Palestine, parts of Jordan and Lebanon.
The goal is to walk in the footsteps of prophets, apostles, and the Holy Family. For Christians especially, the Holy Land pilgrimage brings the Gospels to life, turning ancient stories into real life experiences. In recent years, despite the challenges from the 2023-2025 conflicts in Gaza and the West Bank, pilgrimages have begun to return. We are beginning to see numerous organized tours resuming.
Most recently, I was able to visit the Holy Land for the sixth time in my life. In the past, as a member of the Equestrian Order of the Holy Sepulchre, I had been involved with missions in Jordan, Lebanon and areas of Palestine as part of my visits. It was so very touching and rewarding, each trip, in different ways. However, this trip would be something much different.
Our group would be led by our Bishop of Biloxi, Bishop Louis Khineman, and Holy Family Parish’s Pastor, Fr. Mike Austin. In addition, it would be the first time I would travel to this very special place with my wife, Margaret. I had always encouraged the trip, but with the COVID issues and the War issues, along with her work schedule, it just never worked out. This time, everything aligned and we were off. Additionally, we were traveling with several of our friends and parishioners who were first timers, so I was really charged up about this trip.
For those of you who have never experienced this pilgrimage, I can say with great confidence and with an educated mind that it should be on your bucket list. The pilgrimage often begins long before the actual departure. Many folks describe a deep spiritual calling, a sense that God is inviting them to see the place where it all happened.
Preparation involves prayer, and some Scripture study to focus the mind and the heart. Our group met twice with Fr. Mike and the Bishop in preparation for the trip. The purpose was to prepare from a practical standpoint and from a spiritual one. Travelers must navigate permission notices, visas (U.S. citizens typically receive visa-on-arrival), travel insurance, and modest dress codes for the holy sites.
Most opt for the guided tours of 10-14 days, which include transportation, accommodations, and expert guides who often are local Christians who provide cultural and biblical context. Our guide, Johnny, has been at the job for more than 35 years. He was a blessing, as we navigated these lands, trying to get to everything we wanted to see. These tours frequently feature daily Mass, some time for personal reflection, and later, small group sharing after dinner. We were blessed to have all of our needs granted in a priority fashion, because we were traveling with a bishop.
Of course, the fact that the crowds were nonexistent, because of the fears to travel into the middle east, at the moment, our cause was helped. There were no lines and no crowding at the sites. This was a blessing in many ways, but we would soon discover how much our Christian friends in the Holy Land have been suffering because of the lack of pilgrimages.
As for us, you can imagine the anticipation and the excitement mixed with humility as one is about to stand where Jesus walked, taught, suffered, died, and rose from the dead.
Most pilgrimages start in the north, around the Sea of Galilee. This freshwater lake, also called Lake Tiberias, is where Jesus called His disciples, preached the Beatitudes, calmed the storm, and performed miracles like the multiplication of loaves. Pilgrims often boat across the Sea of Galilee at dawn or sunset. The experience evokes the Gospel scenes vividly. If you listen carefully, you can almost hear Jesus saying, “Peace! Be still!.”
I like many, describe a profound peace here, away from crowds, with the hills of Galilee forming a natural amphitheater. You know something special happened here.
A very special moment occurred when we reached Mount Tabor in Galilee. This dome-shaped mountain is, as the Gospels refer to it, “the high mountain” where Jesus took Peter, James and John and was transfigured before them.
His face shined like the sun and his clothing white as light. It is where Moses and Elijah appeared and talked to Him. It is where a bright cloud appeared and overshadowed the three apostles, with a voice coming from the cloud saying, “this is my beloved son, in whom I am well pleased, listen to Him.”
The Church of the Transfiguration offers an amazing view surrounding the Galilean countryside. Several of our pilgrims were deeply touched by this experience and shared that they were able to feel the presence of Jesus at this location.
Before I go on, I must tell you of the wonderful experience it is to see first timers in the holy land. It is amazing to watch the things that touch them spiritually, and it is not always what you might have guessed.
For instance, it is normal to assume the birth site of Jesus in Bethlehem, and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the site of Jesus’ crucifixion, burial and resurrection, would be the major emotional moments on this journey. However, every site touches folks in a different way.
At Capernaum, the “town of Jesus,” we explored the ruins of the synagogue where He taught, and the nearby house believed to be the house Peter lived in that originally was owned by his mother-in-law. The Mount of Beatitudes, overlooking the lake, offers these amazing panoramic views and a moment to reflect on the Sermon on the Mount. Then there is The Church of the Beatitudes, an octagonal structure with beautiful gardens, that invites you to take a few moments of quiet contemplation. I read the Beatitudes to myself in this setting and can tell you there is something special about hearing the Beatitudes aloud, feeling the words in the place they were spoken.
Nazareth, Jesus’ childhood home, centers on the Basilica of the Annunciation. This modern church houses the Grotto of the Annunciation, where the angel Gabriel appeared to Mary. The vast basilica is filled with mosaics from around the world depicting the Virgin Mary. Many of our Pilgrims shared stories of emotional moments here with tears of joy, and a deeper understanding of Mary’s “fiat moment,” as in her “Let it be done to me according to your word.”
One of the highlights among many highlights, was the Jordan River. Here, we renewed our baptismal vows in the river’s waters where John the Baptist, baptized Jesus. For many of us, the act is deeply moving as it symbolizes spiritual rebirth and connection to Jesus’ own baptism. We were all anxious to share this holy water with those at home and filled our plastic bottles that later would be blessed by the bishop for the return home.
A short drive to Bethlehem, in the Palestinian West Bank, brought us to the Church of the Nativity, built over the grotto where Jesus was born. Descending stairs to the star-marked spot, we knelt, touched the stone, and kissed it in reverence.
The church’s ancient mosaics, columns, and manger altar evoke many feelings, but mostly, humility. We celebrated mass in the cave directly next to the place where Jesus was born…indeed a very special moment. From there, the nearby Shepherds’ Field and Milk Grotto added layers of reflection. It has always struck me, the contrast between Bethlehem’s simplicity and its eternal significance. God incarnate, came into this world, born a man on this site, the simplest of areas, in a cave, lying in a manger surrounded by hay and animals.
I would not be honest if I didn’t say that Old City Jerusalem is the pilgrimage’s climax. The city is filled with history and spirituality, while being sacred to three faiths. The Via Dolorosa winds through the Old City’s narrow streets, marking the traditional path Jesus carried His cross.
We joined in procession at 4:30am, carrying crosses, pausing and praying at the Stations of the Cross. The experience is intense, imagining the crowds, the merchants calling out, the weight of the cross, mirroring Jesus’ suffering amid a very ordinary life.
The journey ends at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, built over Golgotha and the tomb of Jesus. This ancient basilica, shared by multiple Christian denominations, houses the rock of Calvary and the empty tomb, the place of the Resurrection.
In years past, Pilgrims waited in long lines to enter the Edicule (the tomb of Christ), touch the anointing stone, and pray in the tomb itself. Sadly, it is not so these days, as the crowds have yet to return to the Holy Land. Typically, the atmosphere is charged with incense, chanting, and pilgrims from every continent. We were blessed to be able to join the Franciscans in their weekly High Mass at the Tomb of Jesus.
For Bishop Kihneman, it would be the first time he would celebrate mass at the tomb of Jesus. He would invoke the consecration acting in persona Christi, (in the person of Christ) to change the bread and wine into the Body and Blood of Christ, right on the tomb stone where Jesus was buried and later rose from the dead. He was obviously moved by this, as we all were.
For me, it would be the first time I would get to read at the high mass at the tomb of Jesus. Proclaiming the word in these holy places is indeed a gift and an honor. For me, it was also a special honor to sing Schubert’s Ave Maria in the Church of the Visitation. It is easily in the top five Churches I have sung in around the world for its acoustics. It brought my moment of prayer to a very special connection to Our Blessed Mother. F
ew places in the world have touched me this way when singing this beautiful prayer to our Blessed Mother. I am blessed for sure.
The Western Wall offers another interesting experience. It is simply the most sacred site where Jews can pray in Jerusalem’s Old City. Representing the last remaining supporting wall of the Second Temple complex built by Herod, around 19 BC, it also acts as the noble sanctuary for those of Islam.
The Western or Wailing Wall, termed by Jewish custom, is the place where the Jews mourn the temple’s destruction. It is considered the closest accessible spot to the Holy of Holies, the most sacred site in Judaism. The Holy of Holies was the innermost secluded and sacred Chamber of the Tabernacle and later the Jerusalem Temple. It housed the Ark of the Covenant which represented the dwelling place of God’s presence among His people.
It goes without saying that it is one of the most sacred places on earth. Pilgrims from all over the world place notes into cracks on the wall, filled with intentions and prayer requests. Many can be seen in deep prayer at the sight.
The Holy Land pilgrimage’s core is mostly spiritual. There is also an enormous amount of history to be seen. Mostly, pilgrims report deepened faith, healed relationships, and in some cases a clarity of vocations. The physical act of walking, praying, and sharing the Eucharist daily, in the land where it all happened, obviously fosters intimacy with Christ. Our folks experienced many emotional highs including moments of awe, joy, and tears.
The challenges, sickness, jet lag, or navigating checkpoints when going into Palestinian areas, and the craziness of International Travel, tested patience and built solidarity among the group. However, I won’t sugar coat the amount it takes out of people to travel internationally these days. It is indeed so sad that pilgrims are put through such difficult circumstances. Such is life in conjunction with this region’s complex politics.
Throughout it all, I can tell you that despite the travel situation, it is well worth it. Pilgrims return changed. Our folks were no different.
The Holy Land makes the Scriptures three-dimensional, strengthening faith and inspiring witnesses. As one of our pilgrims reflected, “I didn’t just visit the places; the places visited me.”
It brings it all to life as the pilgrimage reminds us that faith is not abstract but rooted in history and geography. In a divided world, the Holy Land pilgrimage offers hope of a shared sacred space where heaven touches earth.
Peace my Brothers and Sisters, until next week…
(Photo by Tour 360)
